Cooks in southern France flavor eggplant with a Provencal caper-olive paste called tapenade, which complements eggplant well because of its salty taste. I dice the olives instead of pureeing them to a paste and leave the eggplant chunky for a better texture and color. If you want to add anchovies, a classic tapenade component, use three or four olive-oil-packed filets and chop them fine. Spoon this salad in the center of a bed of romaine lettuce leaves and garnish it with ripe tomato wedges or cherry tomatoes; or serve it in a bowl as a relish and top it with parsley sprigs and olives. Crusty French bread is the perfect partner. Recently my husband came up with a new use that might raise a few eyebrows among Riviera residents - he spreads this Provencal eggplant on grilled soy burgers and sprinkles it with Mexican hot sauce.