The cheeses made from raw milk have a natural bacterial system which plays a part of protection against the pathogenic organisms. However, the cheese makers have considerably improved the control in bacteriological quality of their production. Therefore, one should not put in danger the making of these cheeses, with an aim of seeking a risk zero which in all the ways does not exist. On the contrary, they deserve to be cordially defended."
We have four large cellars, which enables us to have seasonally from 150 to 200 varieties of cheeses that is to say up to 20.000 units: some products are very seasonal. The cheeses are aged at low temperature in an atmosphere of a hygrometric rate of 85 with nearly 100%. It is there that, days after days, a work takes place which one does not imagine. The cheeses are put on racks, by families: the bloomy rinds, the cooked pastes, the goat's milk cheeses and the washed rind cheeses. The goat’s milk cheese, for example, which comes fresh to the producer, will require three to four weeks maturing and up to twenty operations: the first step consists in pumping out their excess of moisture; then putting them down on grids and finally turning over them three times per week until perfect maturity. When it is known that there can be to 20.000 goats cheeses in stock, here is a titanic task. The same applies to the washed pate. They are washed two, three times per week with different brines, improved with these long years of experiment. The Maroilles cheese for example, which is handled during two months and half, is washed with beer. The other types, which take approximately three to four weeks, are seen massed or sprayed with the white wine, marc (Epoisses, Langres) or with salted water.
About aging, we must keep and handle at least 80% of our cheeses. The first step consists in finding the good products and maturing them in order to come up to clientele’s expectations.
All our suppliers are craftsmen or independent, hand making cheese with raw milk, and so preserving a traditional know-how that the cheese ager can alone lead to the perfection.
However, the art of affinage (the craft maturing and aging cheeses) cannot turn a cheese into product of excellence if the latter is not associated with a rigorous product’s selections